July 14th 2017
The Degree Show winners, Ane Castro and Núria Costa, took 3D Printing to the ESDi runway





After a runway show which displayed 15 collections developed by ESDi Fashion students, the emerging designers Ane Castro and Núria Costa were recognized as winners of the most recent edition of the ESDi Degree Show, carried out in the Saint Agustín Convent, in Barcelona.


Through COD3NTIDAD, a collection consisting of six unisex outfits, the ESDi alumni had the chance to explore the potentialities of 3D fabrics in fashion design and to take their interest for materials and technology to the foreground.


According to Costa, who, with Castro, constitutes the fashion firm ZER, the main idea that articulates the collection came together during an internship in Holland, where the two designers could learn the basics of 3D printing and were able to create 80 samples of fabric, which later crystalized into clothing pieces that were completely fabricated with said cloths and into outfits that incorporated 3D elements, like hoodies or pockets.


COD3NTIDAD“We took the guidance of the materials and the samples, instead of doing the reverse process. It was through the fabrics that we realized which were the right shapes, how to put together different fabrics and which properties they gave out”, Costa comments.


Technology was also decisive when choosing a unifying theme for the collection: “we wanted a theme that could guide us, but not constrict us”, the designer comments, thanks to which they decided to analyze, through their collection, positive and negatives aspects of technology: creativity and concealment. In this way, the concepts of identity theft, concealment and duplication come to life through the pattern design, incorporating replicated faces into some pieces, or hoodies and eyeshades in order to hide the face.

The importance of the technological also allowed the designers to explore the creation of genderless pieces, in order to “be able to design from the bodies and not from the idea of Male and Female”, Costa adds.


“Winning the Best Collection prize in the Degree Show was something that gave us a great deal of joy. For us, it’s a sign of support in order to carry on as a brand. Also, after this, a lot of people have contacted us and encouraged us to keep on working”, Costa points out.


The future of ZER, meanwhile, will travel down the path of technological exploration: “our first idea was to scan the bodies and design the pieces from that, but it was a rather complex project and technology had not advanced enough to achieve that. We think that we can accomplish this in the future, and print the pieces from every scan”.